The holiest shrine in Laos is the scene for this vibrant Buddhist Festival. Pha That Luang is the most holy stupa (temple) in Laos, rebuilt by the French or the Lao - they are still in disagreement - in the late 1870s after it was flattened by the Chinese in 1875.
During this week long Festival, hundreds of orange-robed Buddhist monks form processions to walk from That Luang to Wat Si Muang, another large temple in Vientiane which contains the foundation stone of the capital city. (Some experts believe a human sacrifice accompanied the laying of this first stone many centuries ago). The processions begin early in the morning, and just after dawn the monks line up with large metal bowls at a stall which represents their wat (temple). Townsfolk walk down the line of stalls each with a bowl filled with sticky rice, vegetables, little sweets, and clean newly laundered bank notes. As they pass each stall, they drop an offering into the bowl of each monk. Giving to monks confers good karma so townsfolk give willingly without expecting thanks. One interesting feature of this festival is that the very poorest members of the community share the contents of the monks' bowls.
Perhaps the best time to enjoy That Luang Festival is as the sun is setting when the That Luang looks majestic against the evening skies. As soon as it is dark, columns of monks carrying candles walk round the Great Stupa chanting and praying as hundreds of townsfolk look on. This is the cue for a week of partying, parades and dancing in which the sleepy capital wakes up and the streets come alive. Temples fill to bursting with flowers and other offerings, fireworks and music light up the banks of the Mekong, and families make extensive visits to one another with parties continuing well into the night. In 1997, the very compound of That Luang was in party mode. A laser show and dancefloor was set up with a sound system pumping out house music and Lao pop music alternately. Grannies and children looked on while some braver couples took to the floor. Festival time in Laos is always accompanied by the lethal Lao Lao, a clear rice wine spirit, which throws a punch once when you drink it and again the next morning. You have been warned!
Perhaps the best time to enjoy That Luang Festival is as the sun is setting when the That Luang looks majestic against the evening skies. As soon as it is dark, columns of monks carrying candles walk round the Great Stupa chanting and praying as hundreds of townsfolk look on. This is the cue for a week of partying, parades and dancing in which the sleepy capital wakes up and the streets come alive. Temples fill to bursting with flowers and other offerings, fireworks and music light up the banks of the Mekong, and families make extensive visits to one another with parties continuing well into the night. In 1997, the very compound of That Luang was in party mode. A laser show and dancefloor was set up with a sound system pumping out house music and Lao pop music alternately. Grannies and children looked on while some braver couples took to the floor. Festival time in Laos is always accompanied by the lethal Lao Lao, a clear rice wine spirit, which throws a punch once when you drink it and again the next morning. You have been warned!
